Tylerwatt12.com

Author: Tyler Watthanaphand

  • Harris XG-100P programming accessory port cover STL

    Harris XG-100P programming accessory port cover STL

    File to make it yourself: XG-100P-AccCover-v6.stl

    Hardware needed: M3x6 hex cap screw

  • Honda Goldwing Poor Boy Alternator parts list 2025

    Honda Goldwing Poor Boy Alternator parts list 2025

    I just completed a poor boy alternator on my Honda Goldwing GL1200 Aspencade. I tried my best to document any tips and all the parts I purchased to complete the project below.

    Youtube Video: https://tinyurl.com/poorboy-alt

    This document uses affiliate links, and I earn a small commission when you purchase parts using the links on this page.

    Pulley & Belt

    • KRC Power Steering Pulley B005JVGX4M  KRC 40140300
    • Bushing 5448T427           12mm ID 17mm OD 9.5mm shaft
      • (goes inside the pulley to fit the M12 bolt), Requires minor sanding of OD to fit inside the pulley
      • $10.25
      • McMaster-Carr
    • Lock washer 91477A200       M12 screw, 29mm OD
      • Provides clamping force on KRC Pulley from M12 bolt
      • $6.43 ($0.64 used)
      • McMaster-Carr
    • M12 Bolt 91180A905       25×60 Class 8.8 Bolt
      • Longer bolt to accomidate pulley and spacers, Class 8.8 meets the torque requirement of the bolt
      • $13.87 ($1.39 used)
      • McMaster-Carr
    • Brass Flange Bushing 7634N19             1/2″ ID, 3/4″ OD, 3/4″ len
      • Required sanding non flanged side to get the pulley closer to the timing cover
      • $4.94
      • McMaster-Carr
    • Gates or Equiv belt 295K3 or K030295        Belt 3 Rib, Micro-V, 29.5″
      • Your belt may be different, use a string to measure proper belt length
      • $14.29
      • Purchase Guide

    Alternator

    • Nippon Denso Reman Alternator 321-1250            for 91 Geo Metro, 3 rib pulley
      • 55 Amp, 3 wire alternator with T shape round plug, price incl core, rear mounting tab needs cut off
      • $157.79
      • RockAuto
    • 2x Alternator mounting bolts                        25 bolt
      • Top mount is threaded
    • Alternator mounting nut M8 1.25 nut
      • Lower mounting lock nut
    • 8x Upper alt bracket spacer washers    ZHUYU009        M5 washers
      • Spacer washers for top bracket, used to space bracket from fairing mount, 8 needed, 4 on each side of the bracket
      • $10.99 ($0.05 used)
      • Amazon

    Radiator

    • 2x Round coupling nut    90202A441       10mm, 25mm len, M6x1 thread
    • Threaded rod 90024A227       M6x1 threaded rod
      • Extends bottom radiator mount threads, Cut to size
      • $4.61
      • McMaster-Carr
    • Longer coolant hose NBH7733           1″ heater hose
      • Probably not required, compatible models: gates 21008, napa NBH7733, AutoZone Duralast B70834, AdvAuto CarQuest – 21029
      • $14.00
      • AutoZone
    • Longer radiator fan bolts 95911A311       8x16mm
      • 3 longer bolts, philips head, allow the fan to be pushed closer to the radiator so the blades do not touch the alternator belt
      • $6.00 ($1.80 used)
      • McMaster-Carr
    • Spacer nuts for radiator 94150A340       8
      • These nuts are used as a spacer to push the fan closer to the radiator by a set amount
      • $6.07 ($0.36 used)
      • McMaster-Carr

    Steel

    • Flat Steel stock 2279541              1″ x 1/8″ x 3′ flat steel, low carbon
      • Bracket Building, Home-Depot will have it, but more expensive. Try Menards, McMaster, Lowes instead
      • $4.79 ($3.19 used)
      • Menards
    • Steel angle stock 2279703              1″ x 1/8″ x 3′ steel angle
      • Bracket Building, Home-Depot will have it, but more expensive. Try Menards, McMaster, Lowes instead
      • $7.71 ($2.14 used)
      • Menards

    Welding

    • Arc Welder B08CBBHFX5 YESWELDER FLUX-135PRO
      • Any arc welder will work, starts at $60 on Amazon
      • $116.00
      • Amazon
    • Welding Rod FleetWeld 37-RSP        1/8″ E6013 welding rod
      • 3/32 may be a better option for this, used 2 rods for this project
      • $21.98 ($0.88 used)
      • Home Depot
    • Auto tinting welding helmet B07QJ1Y527
    • Chipping Hammer B002ACOXNG                 Hobart 770066 Chipping Hammer
    • Wire Brush B07CD9QR25 Lincoln K3185-1 Wire Brush
    • Welding Gloves B01N1VJDIQ    RAPICCA Welding Gloves

    Electrical

    • Alternator plug B0DFMBBZ48 Alternator 3 wire nippon denso style plug
    • Inline Fuse/Circuit Breaker B0BZHL4LVB  40A
      • Install as close as possible to battery
      • $14.85
      • Amazon
    • Copper Wire B08K2MMYCT                  8ga, 25′, OFC Copper
      • From alternator to battery, only need 5′ max
      • $19.99 ($4 used)
      • Amazon
    • Copper Wire B07588953X    14ga, X’, OFC Copper
      • From alternator plug to accessory wire (15A Fused), only need 5′ max
      • $7.99 ($4 used)
      • Amazon
    • Wire Terminal Ring B08R6WHRPQ                8ga
      • SOLDER the terminal rings, for thick wire between alternator and battery, need 2 pcs for this
      • $6.67 ($1.33 used)
      • Amazon
    • Wire Terminal Ring B0CYM3J44Q 14ga
      • Can Crimp. Connect this between Alternator plug and positive post on fuse box above airbox, need 1 pc for this
      • $7.58 ($0.08 used)
      • Amazon
    • Butt splice B0D5GNJ1MR                  14ga
      • Need 14ga for splicing alternator plug to 14ga wire to accessory fuse, need 1pc for this
      • $9.99 ($0.05 used)
      • Amazon

    Misc (things you may already have)

    • Paint B000PIEWLA                     Enamel spray paint
    • Drill Press B08ZVT5JKC                      Drill can be used, used for bracket making
    • Drill Bits B079VJMH6T                     used for bracket making
    • Angle Grinder B07P5D6M4V incl Cut off disc, Grinding Disc
    • Safety Glasses B01A12J3GI
    • Soldering Iron Kit B08R3515SF
    • Wire Crimp Tool B0BGXDD5Z8
  • How to find Exchange Device ID on Outlook for iOS

    How to find Exchange Device ID on Outlook for iOS

    The Problem:

    Finding the device ID for Exchange when you use the native mail app for iOS is fairly straightforward, but if you use the Outlook for iOS app, it is much harder to find.

    I’ve discovered a process to uncover the device ID, because it appears to be hidden from the Outlook app alltogether.

     

    See this screenshot from an Outlook App device in Exchange Online. Compare it to the one below it of a device added with the native mail app.

    The native mail app gives you more detail, which can help you identify the correct device easier. The Outlook app has almost no information besides the iOS version which is usually outdated.

    Solution Outline:

    We can get the device ID from your device that uses the Microsoft Outlook App, but you need to perform some additional steps.

    You will need a Windows PC with the Microsoft store to download the Microsoft Diagnostic Data Viewer The mobile device in question must be connected to the same Wireless network as the diagnostic PC. The outlook app will create a TCP connection to the PC to send logs.

    Guide:

    Download Microsoft Diagnostic Data Viewer on PC

    Go into Settings and enable Office diagnostic data viewing on, and Remote Office diagnostic data viewing on

    Open the Outlook App and go into Settings>Privacy Settings>View Diagnostic Data on Windows

    Copy the Office Connection String from the Diagnostic Data Viewer, and enter it into the Connection String field on the Outlook App.

    Exit back to the main screen of Outlook, and check for new messages by pulling down on the Inbox screen. You should see your mobile device show up on the sidebar of the Diagnostic Data Viewer

    Select this device, and you should see JSON debugging information. This localId matches what we see in Exchange Admin Center

     

    Bonus: How to find the Exchange Device ID in the native Mail App

    • Go to Settings>Mail>Accounts>Add Account
    • Select Microsoft Exchange. The Exchange Device ID should show at the bottom of the page.
  • DJI Smart Controller DIY Quick Charger

    DJI Smart Controller DIY Quick Charger

    If you own a DJI Smart Controller, you may have come across this message while trying to plug it in to charge.

    Current charging speed slow. Please use the charger that comes with the device for a faster charging speed.

    Slow charging a smart controller could represent a hazard, because the slow charge rate isn’t enough power to maintain the battery level while flying your drone.

    After a recent incident where the smart controller shut down while I was flying a drone, I became determined to find a solution to be able to rapid charge the controller via a battery pack I already had

    A forum post I discovered mentioned the controller used Qualcomm’s QuickCharge standard. Qualcomm’s QuickCharge standard is a pre-USB PD era charging standard that allows negotiated charging above 5v for supported devices.

    I didn’t want to buy yet another battery pack just for an antiquated standard, so I opted to make a cable that converts USB PD to QC instead.

    Parts list (Amazon Affiliate links):

    Consumables I already had:

    Tools:

    Here is the final product:

    The braided cord goes into the battery pack, and the barrel plug goes into the QC 3.0 adapter. This braided cord is the magic sauce that tells the charger to output 20v, and send that to the “yipin Hexha” adapter

    That adapter will let you charge your Smart Controller significantly faster than before, and your controller won’t die while charging. Hope this helps!

  • Sony GTK-XB7 wont turn on. Bluetooth Speaker Repair Guide

    Sony GTK-XB7 wont turn on. Bluetooth Speaker Repair Guide

    I recently picked up a broken Sony bluetooth speaker locally for $20. Using a few resources I found online, I was able to easily fix the mainboard so it would turn on. Originally the speaker would show no lights at all, not respond to any buttons.

    This seems like a common problem for this model, and this guide will hopefully help keep these surprisingly good sounding speakers out of the landfill.

    My repair service

    IF you are not comfortable working with high voltage, and soldering electrical components, I am providing a repair service for anyone who wants their board fixed. Feel free to email me at [email protected]. We will need to do some basic troubleshooting to confirm the issue is indeed something I can fix.

    How to fix it yourself

    (Note: Do this at your own risk. This guide may expose you to High voltage which is dangerous and I don’t take any responsibility for any damages, injury, or death).

    To Fix it yourself, you will need to be skilled with a soldering iron, and have knowledge of basic electronic circuits.

    Parts you’ll need (Amazon Affiliate links):

    The problem with these speakers lies in the 5v power regulator IC and schottky diode. These components are prone to failure which causes the diode to dead short, and the IC to burn out. My thermal camera shows the 5v IC getting hotter than the rest of the board.

    The power supply board provides 36v via a white and blue ribbon cable. This power supply is always on when AC power is provided. So if you can probe this wire and see 33-36 volts DC, your power supply is likely fine.

    Rather than carefully desoldering the 5v IC and diode, then waiting possibly weeks for working replacement parts (That may end up failing again). I elected to bypass the integrated 5v circuit and use parts that you can get next day on Amazon.

    Some people have found that simply replacing the SS34B diode fixed their problem, but in my case, I de-soldered and lifted the output (pin 3) of the 5V IC and found no voltage was present, telling me the chip was bad. IF your 5v is good, and the diode is bad, you can either replace it with another SS34B, or a common 1N5822 through-hole style diode

    The easiest way to remove the 5V IC is to use your side cutters to cut the legs off of the chip (Labeled U3 on the board). You will not be able to completely remove the IC from the board without a hot air station. The bottom of the chip is a ground and soldered to the PCB.

    Now, de-solder the schottky SS34B diode(D1)

    Find or purchase an off the shelf buck converter from a site like Amazon. I used this one

    Strip some wire off of the 36v ribbon cable to solder a wire that will go to the “V+ In” on the buck converter.

     

    Solder a wire onto the Anode side of ZD2. (You’ll see the diode, blue and orange next to the inductor labeled 220). Solder this wire to the “V- In” on the buck converter.

     

    Turn the power supply on, and use the trim pot to adjust the output voltage to 5.00v DC.

    Once you have voltage dialed in, solder a new wire onto the Cathode(blue) side of ZD2. Solder the other end of this wire to “V+ Out”

    We are essentially bypassing the burnt out 5v circuit and replacing it with a buck converter.

    Use Kapton tape to tape down the wires and prevent any movement or stress to the parts you soldered

    Use electrical tape to cover the spliced 36v ribbon cable

    Reassemble the board and test.

     

    Board works.

    Reassembled everything, tested all the functions including the app and remote control. No issues.

     

  • Hardwire gude 2022 Hyundai Elantra N

    Hardwire gude 2022 Hyundai Elantra N

    This guide will show you the fuse locations and equipment needed to hardwire a radar detector or dashcam on a 2022 Hyundai Elantra N

     

    Consumables needed: Micro2 Fuse Tap (Affiliate Link)

    Note: Fuse Taps are directional! For unpopulated fuse banks, only put a fuse in the top and leave the passthrough spot empty.

    Fuse Locations

    Fuse 47 (red wire on right) should be unpopulated. The left side will provide +12V when the car is on. Insert the fuse tap with the fuse facing down. You can use this for Radar Detectors, Remote wire for amp turn on, Dashcam, etc.

    Fuse 31 (yellow wire on left) will provide the car +12v at all times. You can use this for parking mode wire

    Ground Location

    1. Remove the front door scuff trim.
    2. Remove the hood latch release handle by pulling it away from the trim
    3. Remove the front door body side weatherstrip.
    4. Using a screwdriver or remover, remove the cowl side trim
    5. Under this you will see a bolt used to hold the dashboard to the chassis.
    6. Remove the bolt and grind down the paint in a small patch around the bolt hole to expose the bare metal.
    7. This surface will be suitable to use as a ground.
  • AllWorx Firewall Rules and Server IP for Firmware Updates

    AllWorx Firewall Rules and Server IP for Firmware Updates

    To allow an Allworx phone system to receive updates the following IP’s must be unblocked:

     

    allworxportal.com (52.191.116.193)
    TCP/8081
    TCP/80

  • Synology Virtual Machine Manager (VMM) on DS415+

    Synology Virtual Machine Manager (VMM) on DS415+

    I haven’t seen anyone successfully get VMM working on an upgraded DS415+ with 8GB of RAM.

    Yes. It IS possible. You have to use specific version of packages found at: https://archive.synology.com/download/Package/

    Replication Service: 1.0.12-0065

    Virtualization: 2.5.3-9760

    I’m running DSM: 6.2.4-25556

    Photos below:

  • How to fix Mazda touchscreen cracking / delamination

    How to fix Mazda touchscreen cracking / delamination

    Mazda Connect Touchscreen Digitizer Replacement Guide

    If your Mazda Connect screen has developed cracks, ghost touch issues, or random touchscreen behavior, you may be able to fix it without replacing the entire CMU or screen assembly.

    This repair uses basic tools and an inexpensive replacement digitizer, typically around $15–$25, making it far cheaper than a dealership repair or full screen replacement.

    Common Symptoms

    This issue is usually caused by adhesive delamination between the touchscreen cover and the digitizer after repeated hot and cold cycles.

    • Spider cracking around the edges of the screen
    • Ghost touches or random inputs
    • Touchscreen areas that stop responding
    • Erratic screen behavior

    If your vehicle is still under full warranty, Mazda may replace the unit at no charge.

    View Mazda TSB / warranty information

    Mazda Connect screen cracking example

    Important: 36-Pin vs 50-Pin Digitizers

    Before ordering parts, verify which touchscreen digitizer your screen uses.

    • 36-pin digitizer — older style
    • 50-pin digitizer — newer style

    The 36-pin version is typically found on older assemblies, while the 50-pin digitizer is the newer design. Always confirm your connector type before purchasing a replacement.

    It is said that 2018+ models with the black bezel trim (instead of chrome) feature the newer 50 pin digitizer. If someone can confirm this, and post a comment, that would be extremely helpful.

    Note 2: None of this applies to the ND3 (2024+) This is a completely different screen, and so far no reports of digitizer de-lamination.

    Before You Begin

    Use caution: parts of this repair require careful handling to avoid damaging the screen PCB or ribbon cables. If you are not comfortable working on delicate electronics, this may not be the right DIY project for you.

    These photos were taken during reassembly after the screen was repaired, so some images may show the unit going back together rather than coming apart.

    Tools and Parts

    If this guide helps you, consider using the affiliate links below to purchase the needed parts.

    Buy 36 pin replacement touchscreen on eBay (Affiliate Link)

    Buy 36 pin replacement touchscreen on Amazon (Affiliate Link)

    Buy 50 pin replacement touchscreen on eBay (Affiliate Link)

    Buy 50 pin replacement touchscreen on Amazon (Affiliate Link)

    Disclosure: When you click certain links on this site and make a purchase, this site may earn a commission through affiliate programs, including the eBay Partner Network and Amazon affiliate links.

    Replacement touchscreen

    Step-by-Step Photo Guide

    Follow the repair in stages instead of scrolling through one long wall of photos.

    Step 1 — Remove the display and surrounding trim

    Start by removing the trim pieces and screen assembly carefully. Keep track of screws and clips as you go.

    Step 2 — Open the screen housing

    Separate the housing and expose the internal components carefully, avoiding stress on any ribbon cables.

    Step 3 — Remove the damaged digitizer

    Work slowly when separating the old digitizer from the display assembly. Use heat carefully if needed to soften the adhesive.

    Step 4 — Clean the adhesive and prepare the surface

    Remove all remaining adhesive and debris so the new digitizer can sit flat and bond properly.

    Step 5 — Install the new digitizer

    Align the new digitizer carefully, route the ribbon correctly, and make sure the assembly sits flat before reassembly.

    Step 6 — Reassemble and test

    Reconnect everything, test touch response before fully buttoning it up, and then reinstall the trim pieces.

    Final Notes

    If your Mazda Connect screen is cracked or suffering from ghost touch issues, replacing only the digitizer can save a significant amount of money compared to replacing the full infotainment unit.

    The most important step before ordering is confirming whether your screen uses the older 36-pin digitizer or the newer 50-pin digitizer.

  • TL;DR FreePBX and Polycom VVX provisioning

    This guide will quickly give you very important information you need on provisioning VVX phones with FreePBX

    When a phone is factory reset, it will get a DHCP lease.

    Polycom VVX phones have a mac address starting with 0004F2. You can create a policy in Windows DHCP server to allocate specific IPs to the phones

    Polycom phones utilize DHCP option 160 to find a provisioning server. The contents of option 160 must be in string format. (e.g. tftp://192.168.1.10)

    For time synchronization, DHCP option 42 must be set.

    They also use DHCP option 002 to get the time offset. 

    I use software called Tftpd64 to create a tftp server on my windows PCs. I tell it which folder I dump all my config files into.

    when the phone boots, it will look for [mac address].cfg, if it can’t find that, it will look for [mac address]-web.cfg, then 000000000000.cfg.

    000000000000.cfg is supposed to be the catchall for phone provisioning. It should not contain any actual phone provisioning commands, it only helps the phone point to other configuration files.

    Example 000000000000.cfg here

    Polycom recommends using XML Notepad by Microsoft to edit these files.

    000000000000.cfg defines the following settings before the phone boots:

    • the firmware update file location
    • which config files to load (I recommend setting up a generalize.cfg file, then a [PHONE_MAC_ADDRESS]-sip.cfg file for each individual phone)
    • where to store boot logs (polycom phones will write its boot logs back to the TFTP server)
    • where to store call history logs (polycom phones will write this back to the TFTP server)

    This is an example deployment scenario:

    1. The phone reads 000000000000.cfg because it couldn’t find [phone mac].cfg or [phone mac]-web.cfg
    2. Phone will check for firmware updates defined in the file, if none are found it will continue
    3. 000000000000.cfg points to generalize.cfg and [PHONE_MAC_ADDRESS]-sip.cfg
    4. generalize.cfg is read and applied (these settings apply to all phones)
    5. [PHONE_MAC_ADDRESS]-sip.cfg is substituted for the phones MAC, and then is read. (these settings contain passwords, and settings specific to that phone)
    6. The phone boots

    The following settings are important for a FreePBX Deployment

    generalize.cfg – Settings that don’t change, used by all phones.

    msg.mwi.1.callBackMode=”contact” – This is part of the fix for the voicemail button. By default it is set to “register”, but FreePBX requires SIP phones to call a number to get voicemail

    voIpProt.SIP.AlertInfo.1.value=”Auto Answer” – When a user dials *80[ext], typically the phone will autoanswer. This is known as page/intercom mode. Special SIP headers are sent by FreePBX so the phone recognizes a page from a regular call. Setting this will make the phone aware of a page

    voIpProt.SIP.AlertInfo.1.class=”ringAutoAnswer” – your polycom phone has profiles that define what ringtone to use, how many times to ring, and to auto answer. This setting will tell the phone to auto answer if the SIP.AlertInfo field equals “Auto Answer”

    attendant.resourceList.1.label=”Page All” – I have my main page group set to 900 in FreePBX -> Applications -> Paging and Intercom -> Page Group. These commands will create a softkey button to page all phones in page group 900.

    attendant.resourceList.1.address=”900″

    attendant.resourceList.1.type=”normal”

    [PHONE_MAC_ADDRESS]-sip.cfg – you will need one of these per phone, since the attributes defined in this file are specific to each phone

    msg.mwi.1.subscribe=”[ext]” – enter your sip extension here to get the mailbox to work

    msg.mwi.1.callBack=”*98[ext]” – enter *98 and your sip extension here. This is the number that is called when the voicemail button is pressed.

     

    Other notes:

    • Web interface changes:
      • Whenever you manually go into the web interface and make a phone setting change, the phone will write a file [phonemac]-web.cfg to the TFTP server
      • This will prevent it from loading 000000000000.cfg in the future.
    • Web browser:
      • The VVX phones have a full featured web browser, good for internal company resources, or in my case, garage door openers, door buzzers, etc.
      • see mb.main.home for more info